Art, Photography, Craft and Design Articles.

001 Quick Tips On How to Draw a Realistic Face

002 How to Take Big Suns in Photography

003 Ancient Egyptian Art -- Timeless and Beautiful Today

004 Nude Photography As A Profession

005 Slow Shutter Speeds and Long Exposure Photography

006 Pop Art Brief

007 Must Knows in How to Hold A Pencil When Drawing and Sketching

008 Oil Painting: Solvents and Resins

Quick Tips On How to Draw a Realistic Face
by: Todd Harris

There are many artists who struggle with drawing a face and having it actually look like the person you are drawing. These tips should help you to achieve a more realistic outcome and have your drawings come to life.

The first tip is probably the most important. When you are drawing, draw from a good source or reference. For instance make sure that your photo is a really high quality. Make sure that the photo is big and clear, and not a lot of different lighting sources. Choose a subject that is interesting to you. If you want, a good idea is to draw something of one of the masters, like Beugereau. If what you are drawing doesn't hold an interest for you, you won't do as good a job on it, you'll have less patience, lose interest and never finish. But again, make sure that your reference is high quality because if it's not, you'll end up with garbage.

Next, begin your drawing with your outline. Different artists use different methods for this. Also, time is a consideration, so whether you use a grid method or do it by eye, make sure you are accurate. Of course, the grid is going to be more accurate but time or environment may not allow for this method. Also, as you gain more experience you may go by the eye more often as well. Block in and remember that you don't want to add in the fine details yet. Don't get caught up in working on an eye and all of the lighting and shapes of the eye at this point. Avoid finer detail till later.

Then you can start to divide the light from the shadows, hitting the core shadow outline hard making a distinct value difference between light and shadow.

Then go over it with a towel or cotton balls. Never let your skin come in contact with the paper because your sin is made of oil and it will cause great ugliness to appear on your drawing! Instead use a piece of paper under your drawing hand to help you avoid this. Some artists use gloves made for drawing as well. Try and hit the shadow hard and then after you have gone over with a towel erase out some highlights and make the core shadow darker.

You can start darkening shadows make sure that you are using your referenc to figure out where these are exactly. You may have to do this several times till you establish the value you are after.

Not all of the shadows are going to be dark. Never forget where your light sources are coming from. This is extremely important. Look for where the shadows are falling in direct relation to where the light source is coming from.

Start adding the finer details to your drawing.

Blend in light spots and identify the highlights in your subjects hair. A very beginner mistake is to draw each and every strand of hair. Hair needs to be treated as a mass. Remember this and your hair will turn out more realistic than ever before.

Once you feel you are done, you are almost done. What? Well when you are working with graphite, it can be extremely messy and you may need to do some major clean up of smudges. Use a kneaded eraser to lift these.

Take your time with your drawings and you will begin to see that these techniques can be really beneficial. Anyone can learn to draw, it takes some patience and willingness.

About The Author
Todd Harris is a master artist who is currently working as a concept art director for a multi-billion dollar corporation. He is trained in the Florence Academy Method. Learning2draw.com is a resource based website devoted to aspiring artists wishing to master figure drawing. Visit http://www.learning2draw.com to get tips, tricks, and techniques to master the human form.

How to Take Big Suns in Photography
by: Jan Linden

Sure, these pictures may border on cliches, but they are cliches that never fail to grab us. We're all suckers for that frame-filling drama of Ol' Sol looming large on the horizon.

And we all know how to get those shots of big suns - just shoot the horizon with that fabulously expensive, super-speed, extralow-dispersion glass, apochromatic tele, right?

Wrong. You need a long lens, sure, but it needn't be a budget buster. Some very good 500mm mirror lenses come in under $200, store price. There are all-glass 400mm, 500mm, and 600mm designs from major independents that sell for $300-500. And you can make an existing tele longer by using a teleconverter. That fine 300mm f/4 you bought for nature work, for example, can be converted to a 600mm f/8 with a 2X converter. That's a pretty good focal length for big suns. Using a 3X converter will make a 900mm f/12, and so on.

Besides a tele, you need a sturdy tripod - flimsy travel models need not apply. For one thing, focusing and framing through a long tele is far easier if the rig is well supported. For another thing, even a little shake can blur a long-tele shot.

A spot or limited-area meter helps, although it is not essential. An overall meter reading with an SLR will generally be far too high, resulting in a shot that's too dark - even if the desired effect is a silhouette. Most big-sun shooters use the strategy of spotmetering an area of the sky near but not immediately adjacent to the sun - an area in which some sky tone appears. This will give you a silhouette reading that will still maintain a little shadow detail.

And how do you focus and compose with that big burning disk staring you right in the eye? First, if everything in your frame is a long distance from the camera, setting the lens to infinity is the easiest way to focus without being dazzled. Otherwise, you may prefocuse the camera with the sun just out of the frame. You can often recompose the scene by holding your eye a little away from the finder to avoid being temporarily blinded by the sun.

The best big-sun shots are the ones that don't rely solely on the sun; the big sun, in fact, is best used as a background. The landscape, the harbor scene, the city skyline - each picture should stand on its own for it to work with a big sun behind it.

There is a pitfall here, though. Even with objects at a far distance, they can still be out of the plane of focus of the sun, due to the effective shallow depth of long lenses. Generally, the sun can stand to be a little soft, so try focusing on the nearest large object in the composition. Also, use small apertures and check the depth-of-field preview.

Big-sun shots can, on occasion, be surprisingly colorless; the sky around the sun can range from blank white to dull gray. A filter is called for here, from the standard warming (81A and similar) for a warm sky tone, to amber for richer color, to full orange for an exaggerated effect.

About The Author
Jan Linden is a professional photographer and designer runs http://www.photos4interior.com/

Ancient Egyptian Art -- Timeless and Beautiful Today
by: Ann M Hession

Ancient Egyptian Art is one of the most recognized, admired and collected art in the history of the world. From delicate gold jewelry to vivid paintings to massive statues dozens of feet tall, for over 5,000 years Egyptian art has fascinated, delighted and awed generation after generation with its beauty, style and mystery. While genuine ancient pieces of art are rare and extremely valuable, modern Egyptian artists make beautiful art and jewelry that is inspired by some of the greatest recovered works from ancient sites, and which adheres strictly to the styles used by ancient artists. Jewelry in gold and silver with inlaid stones are fashioned after pieces of jewelry recovered from ancient tombs. Papyrus Paintings are painted in vivid color on genuine papyrus, made using the same principles developed thousands of years ago on the banks of the Nile, where the papyrus plant grows to this day. Paintings are executed in the style of frontalism, one of the most striking characteristics of ancient Egypt.

Frontalism

Frontalism is the style in which every known piece of ancient Egyptian art was produced. In paintings, the style of frontalism means that the head of the character is drawn in profile, while the body is drawn from a front view. However, even though the face is in profile, the eye is drawn in full, as it would be seen from the front. The legs always face the same direction as the head, with one foot forward and one back.

Ancient Egyptian figures, especially of gods and pharaohs, are noticeable for their very formal, even rigid stance and posture, but their faces are always serene, regardless of the scene in which they are depicted. There were very strict rules about how a god or pharaoh could be represented, which even included a prohibition against anything being drawn in front of the face or body of the pharaoh, even when the scene depicted clearly required it for any kind of realism. Realism was simply not a goal of ancient Egyptian Art. It is these very formal and stylized rules that have made Egyptian Art one of the most widely recognized forms of art in the world. Over thousands of years Egyptian artists adhered to this one style, which is quite remarkable, especially as compared to the extreme differences in art expression that have occurred in the modern world in just the past 100 years or so. The only acknowledged variations are in the portrayals of animals and common people as compared to the more formal depictions of pharaohs and gods. As can be seen in many Egyptian paintings, animals and common people or slaves are represented in a more natural manner, though still within very strict and formulaic rules.

This frontalist style is the primary reason why ancient Egyptian art is so easily recognizable, and its appeal has lasted through many centuries to this day.

About The Author
Ann M. Hession is the founder of http://www.egyptianartisans.com. A graduate of Harvard University, Ms. Hession has been fascinated by ancient Egyptian art and culture since high
school. Egyptian Artisans is dedicated to sharing the beauty and mystery of ancient Egypt through making available fine Egyptian art and jewelry.

Nude Photography As A Profession
by: Roy Barker

Many keen and experienced photographers have grown to adore nude photography after as little as one or two shoots. The human form can be wonderous and continuously changing. Equally, the industry of nude art photography does have its rogues but when you pass the the boundary of lust and wonder, you can be left with a continuing desire to improve the artform of nude photography for the rest of your life.

Of course, there are major hurdles to overcome to enter nude photography, not least of which is the need to practise technique. By its very nature there has to be at least one subject, and the big problem for the photographer here is image. To some, the image of a nude photographer is tied in with the “dirty Macintosh” brigade, with the false wig, dark glasses and dark hat.

Not everyone believes the adage that an erotic photograph, does not have to be nude, and a nude photograph is not necessarily erotic. The biggest challenge is to find a suitable model, and certainly in small town rural backwater areas, it is not the brightest propaganda move to put an advertisement in the Post Office window. It is also suspect to approach someone in the street.

Impeccable credentials help here, an image of a bona fide photographer, with a studio, and a business card with a portfolio. A professionally created business card also helps; a ripped off part of an old envelope invites suspicion. It is not necessary to have a portfolio of nudes, but it is essential as an aid of creating the feeling of trust. It can be very helpful to not tell a prospective model what you do, but show them, and depending on their responses take it from there.

A lot of nude photographers start with a self portrait an this is better than nothing in some cases. There are several other methods that can be used to find people to model. Your first option is to hire professional (glamour) models. That can be expensive, and they're not often familiar with that type of work. The second option is to hire amateur models, or perhaps even nude still life models, the problem here is that the latter will have no inhibitions taking their clothes off, and may be able to sit still and hold a specific pose for long periods of time, however they may not be the best models to animate themselves. The third option is not to pay a model at all, but find someone with a vested interest in making a portfolio work. Whilst thinking about this matter during the research for this article it occurred to me, that the ideal person, would be someone who would be prepared to model in exchange for a portfolio, or other photographic service. In other words, a model who has a reason to make the session work will undoubtedly put more effort into overcoming any technical difficulties. Perhaps you know someone who is pregnant who might want to model in exchange for the photos.

Secondly that type of model will produce better results, than some eighteen year olds with a perfect body and a bad attitude. A personal model with enthusiasm to explore different perspectives and techniques has to produce better results than a wooden, but perfect doll. It does not alter the fact that your model must be at peace with the thought of nude modelling as a whole, but a sensitive relationship with the photographer will work wonders here. The rules are no different for a photographer here than a portrait photographer, he or she must first have self confidence. If you cannot get that across to your model he or she will be reluctant to give it their best shot.

This type of photography is striving for a look that is natural, and even has a look that it has not been posed for at all. Comfort is essential not just physical comfort though that is important, but mental comfort, the model must be able to understand the concept behind what you are trying to do so that she can co-operate. You have to take the time to explain the techniques of flattering compositions, but equally the model has to work on being fluid and graceful in these motions.

A good relationship with your model built on confidence is essential when you come to evaluate and criticise the work. Your first session will create the tone for future work, but that is when a model will be her most nervous, a way of getting over this barrier might be to ask her to come accompanied, and that may make for a lighter more relaxed session.

Working with the same model over a number of sessions builds up a rapport, and helps the model learn what works in the images, and what doesn't. She has to be able to see the completed image, before this is really possible. As the model becomes more familiar with how you work and experiences the crucial processes of making an image, the model becomes better at generating poses which work for you, and on the whole, the number of successful images increases.

The locations for this type of photography is not important in terms of the finished image, but it needs to be a little circumspect, or you have to take along a person who watches for stray wanderers if it is outdoors. Lighting normally seems to be better if it is natural, but a single candle can be effective particularly with the use of an older model.

It is important to think ahead before this type of assignment and instruct a model to wear loose clothing and possibly no underwear as strap marks into the skin can take a long time to subside and will ruin the final shots.

Once you have managed to break into this type of work there are many stock libraries that specialise in this type of work.

About The Author
This article has been supplied courtesy of Roy Barker. Roy often writes and works closely with Profitable Photography Business. This site is dedicated to coaching you in starting your own photography business but places a strong emphasis on profitability issues & guidelines. You can also gain many photography resources (some free) from Digital Photography If you seek further guides, helpful hints, articles and news, you can go to http://www.photography-business-tips.com which also has a Photographers Forum for exchange of views with other photographers.

Slow Shutter Speeds and Long Exposure Photography
by: Rick Blythe

Many new cameras will come with built-in shutter speeds of up to 30 seconds or longer, which is enough for most long-exposure photography. Other cameras will have a B (bulb) setting that will keep the shutter open as long as you keep your finger on the shutter release button or a T (time) exposure setting that will keep the shutter open until you press the shutter release button a second time. Cameras with bulb settings can also be fitted with a locking cable release so that it isn't necessary to keep your finger on the shutter for long exposures. If your camera doesn't have a cable release, you can use the self-timer option found on most cameras. This will eliminate camera vibration from your hands.

A tripod, or something to rest your camera on, is essential because the camera must be completely still during the time that the shutter is open. If you want to make a fast-moving car blur as it speeds by you, a relatively fast shutter speed of 1/20 of a second may give you the results you are after, however, if you want to make stars in the nighttime sky look like glowing rings as the earth rotates, your exposure may last all night.

The light meter on your camera may not be able to accurately judge the best aperture setting for longer shutter speeds, especially in low-light situations, so your best bet is probably to "bracket." This means taking up to six pictures of the same subject, but doubling the shutter speed each time. This will give you a variety of effects and exposures and allow you to choose the best shot. In general, slow shutter speeds will allow a lot of light into the camera, which means that you will want to use a small aperture (ie. f/22) to avoid over-exposing the shot. In bright daylight it will be necessary to use the lowest ISO available and a neutral density filter to cut the light down.

Some great effects and shutter speeds to try are:

Moving stars: several hours
Moving cars at night: 10 seconds
Waterfalls: 4 seconds +
Amusement park rides: 1 second

About The Author
Rick Blythe authors Better Digital Photography.
This and other articles can be found at http://betterdigitalphotography.blogspot.com/2004/10/slow-shutter-speeds-and-long-exposure.html

Pop Art Brief
by: Stuart Harris

Pop Art

"The term first appeared in Britain during the 1950s and referred to the interest of a number of artists in the images of mass media, advertising, comics and consumer products. The 1950s were a period of optimism in Britain following the end of war-time rationing, and a consumer boom took place. Influenced by the art seen in Eduardo Paolozzi's 1953 exhibition Parallel between Art and Life at the Institute for Contemporary Arts, and by American artists such as Jasper Johns and Robert Rauschenberg, British artists such as Richard Hamilton and the Independent Group aimed at broadening taste into more popular, less academic art. Hamilton helped organize the 'Man, Machine, and Motion' exhibition in 1955, and 'This is Tomorrow' with its landmark image Just What is it that makes today's home so different, so appealing? (1956). Pop Art therefore coincided with the youth and pop music phenomenon of the 1950s and '60s, and became very much a part of the image of fashionable, 'swinging' London. Peter Blake, for example, designed album covers for Elvis Presley and the Beatles and placed film stars such as Brigitte Bardot in his pictures in the same way that Warhol was immortalizing Marilyn Monroe in the USA. Pop art came in a number of waves, but all its adherents - Joe Trilson, Richard Smith, Peter Phillips, David Hockney and R.B. Kitaj - shared some interest in the urban, consumer, modern experience."

From The Bulfinch Guide to Art History: A Comprehensive Survey and Dictionary of Western Art and Architecture (Bulfinch Guide to Art History) - General Editor Shearer West

About The Author
Stuart Harris - I have been interested in Pop Art culture in all its many guises throughout my life. To see some of my creations please visit http://www.artsweep.com.

Must Knows in How to Hold A Pencil When Drawing and Sketching
by: Todd Harris

How to Hold Your Pencil When Drawing and Sketching

When learning to draw, sometimes it's difficult to know what techniques are available to artists, which ones you should use, and which ones you should not use. How to hold a pencil seems to be trivial in nature but can make a huge difference in your drawings and sketches.

In this article you will learn a few different ways to hold the pencil and how to adopt them into your drawing practices. This is important because most people don't realize that there are more ways than one to grip a pencil when drawing and sketching. They generally pick it up like they were taught in school for writing. But writing and drawing are a lot different. So the way you hold your pencil should be different as well. A lot of problems such as hatched lines and unsteadiness originate from holding the pencil incorrectly.

The first grip is the basic tripod grip. It is the technique that they teach young children in school. It's probably the same one that you use for writing. You grip the pencil with the thumb, forefinger, and middle finger to form a tripod or triangle. This tripod is usually supported by your ring finger and pinky fingers. The grip allows the pencil to be controlled when making fine strokes and is great when applying fine details.

The fingers are in control of the pencil when using the tripod grip. It's also nice when doing the finer details because your hand can rest on the page as it lays these in.

Sometimes smudging can be a problem, but no fear, just lay down a sheet of paper to keep your drawing free from the smudges.

The problems of this grip are that it is a frustrating way to draw. A flowing line is impossible to do this way, your hatching and cross-hatching isn't done correctly and the lines become curved, the pencil pressure is off, and it's not the most comfortable.

The position that is closely related to this position is called the extended tripod grip. It is essentially the same as the basic tripod grip with the exception that the tripod is formed further up on the pencil. This benefits the artist because only a small movement of the fingers can produce greater movement of the pencil tip. One thing to remember with this is to not squeeze it too tightly.

The technique that a lot of artists use is called the overhand grip. This grip is where the pencil is held almost as if you were holding a bow for a violin. Your hand goes over the pencil and is held lightly against the fingers and the flat of your thumb.

This overhand grip is ideal for sketching with the side of the pencil and is the preferred grip among artists. It doesn't need a propped arm and the limitations are only your arm span. Not nearly as many limitations as the other grips have.

This overhand grip produces flowing, sweeping lines and is great for sketching, hatching, cross-hatching, value work, with the side of the lead. It is a huge preference for academic drawing. It's great when using a drawing surface such as an easel. One common rule in whichever grip you choose to use and whatever works for you is to never, ever choke the pencil tip. This is never a good thing to do for artists.

Just remember to use a grip that you are comfortable. There are many variations of these grips and do what you are comfortable with and you will see your drawings come alive.

About The Author
Todd Harris is a master artist who is currently working as a concept art director for a multi-billion dollar corporation. He is trained in the Florence Academy Method. Learning2draw.com is a resource based website devoted to aspiring artists wishing to master figure drawing. Visit http://www.learning2draw.com to get tips, tricks, and techniques to master the human form.

Oil Painting: Solvents and Resins
by: Vijay Kanth

The properties of the various solvents and resins used in an oil painting

Solvents are added to oil paints for temporary change, they are designed to work in a way such that they evaporate consistently and completely as the oil paint dries. (Technically, the more correct term is diluents, as not all are solvents, but it's not the term very commonly used.) Solvents are also used to soften resins, making mediums, cleaning up, and also for cleaning brushes. It is very essential to use solvents in a well-ventilated room and you need to remember that they are flammable (catch fire easily).

Turpentine is the traditional solvent used in the oil painting. It's actually based on tree resin and has a very fast evaporation rate, releasing harmful vapors. It could also be absorbed through healthy skin. Try using only artist quality turpentine as the industrial variety you will find in hardware stores probably contains impurities; it needs to be colorless, like water. It is also known as spirit of turpentine, oil of turpentine, genuine turpentine, English turpentine, distilled turpentine; double rectified turpentine, or even simply turps.

Mineral spirits is based on pure petroleum and has a moderate evaporation rate, releasing harmful vapors. It is not absorbed through healthy skin like turpentine. Mineral spirits is less expensive than turpentine. Mineral spirits is a stronger solvent than odorless mineral spirits, also called as white spirits.

Odorless mineral spirits is based on petroleum and has a reasonable evaporation rate. It is again not absorbed through healthy skin. It's quite expensive than normal mineral spirits as it has had some of the harmful perfumed solvents removed. Good brands include Turpenoid, Thin-ex, and Gamsol.

Tip: Test the quality of a solvent by putting a little on a drop of paper and to let it evaporate. If it doesn't leave any resident, stain, or smell, it needs to be good enough for oil painting.

Resins are used to increase the shine of oil paint, reduce the color, reduce drying time of a medium, and add body to drying oils. The most used one is a natural resin known as Damar that should be mixed with turpentine as it would not thoroughly dissolve when mixed with mineral spirits. Damar could also be used as a varnish.

About The Author
Vijay Kanth is a SEO copywriter having more than 3 years of experience in this field who is currently working for the site 1artclub.com. For further information on oil paintings and Solvents please visit http://www.1artclub.com/ or contact me through mail: 1artclubpainting@gmail.com.